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Monstera Deliciosa 'Small Leaf Form' 

What is the 'Small Leaf Form'?

The small leaf variety of Monstera deliciosa refers to what is more commonly referred to as 'Borsigiana'. This is not a scientifically accepted term for this variety so you will often see it referred to as 'small leaf form'.

This variety is different because the leaves do not get as large as a true large deliciosa form. Additionally, the leaves are more oval shaped, as opposed to round. Due to the larger internodal spacing between the leaves this form is known as a climber. 


Since they are prone to rot it is critical that you let the soil dry out enough so that harmful bacteria does not accumulate. I let my monstera completely dry out and water them every two weeks. If your soil is heavier than mine you should water even less. 

What can I expect from a mid cutting?

If you purchased a mid cutting that means the top of your plant has been cut off. Your plant now has to grow a new stem. All mid cuttings sold on this site will have an active auxillary bud where a stem will grow from. We make sure it begins to grow before shipping out. If something happens to your new stem or auxillary bud you will not have any new growth. Sellers who do not know what they are doing may cut through this bud. Please be aware of this and do not buy cuttings without the proper photos showing this bud. 


I have found without enough light variegated monsteras are prone to browning. Most people blame this on humidity problems but I find light to be critical in this issue. Your variegated monstera will thank you for bright, indirect lighting. You can even give it some direct light as long as the light is not too harsh.  Higher light will reduce browning and shorten the internodal spacing, which will provide you with faster growth.  

Climbing Poles

Borsigiana are known as climbers and should be put on a stake. You will get more elegant growth and larger leaves this way.  You can use anything as long as you can attach it to it. I usually buy a roll of plant velcro and cut pieces to suit the size I need. I usually attach my long-term monstera’s to moss poles but I have seen people just use garden stakes or pvc pipes with no coverings. As long as it's secure with the tape you are golden.


On average I keep my personal albos in about 55% humidity. My aurea’s are kept in my family room, which can reach a low of 35% humidity in winter. I have zero issues with them.

The albos in my indoor greenhouse, that I propagate for sale, are sitting in about 70% humidity.

The main benefit of humidity is the encouragement of growth. Personally I think average humidity is just fine and I have no issues with them unfurling or browning.  


Having the right soil composition is critical for your albo. They are prone to root rot and need proper drainage.  I use 50% potting soil and 50% perlite. Feel free to use other soil amendments but make sure to have a very good amount of drainage.


Not fertilizing your plant is like telling your child to write an essay without teaching him the alphabet. Photosynthesis is reliant on having the proper building blocks within the soil.

I use Osmocote slow release fertilizer 14-14-14. Additionally, I use Liqui-dirt with every watering for some additional organic supplements.  

Feel free to use whatever fertilizer you feel comfortable with! This along with good lighting is key for faster growth.

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